The Complete Horsebox Buyers Guide

Buying a horsebox is not just a significant investment, but also one where safety is a top priority. In this guide, we're going to break down key things to check when buying a horsebox. A thorough inspection of a horsebox can reveal hidden issues (leading to potential costly repairs), helping you to avoid nasty surprises. Below are the key things to check, ranging from searching for rust to understanding vehicle payload and tonnage.

‼️ This document is for guidance only and does not constitute legal advice.

Things to Check Before Viewing

Before you even go to view a horsebox, there are a few checks you can do from the comfort of your home.

Run an HPI check

It’s strongly recommended to carry out an HPI check (or similar vehicle history report). These checks can tell you if the horsebox:

• Has any outstanding finance (if so, the finance company may still own it).
• Has been written off by an insurance company.
• Has been reported stolen.

This step helps protect you from fraud and legal complications. It only takes a few minutes and typically costs a small fee. This is a basic but vital step when buying second-hand.

Confirm MOT status

Use the UK government's MOT history checker to view the horsebox’s past MOT results. Look out for:

• Outstanding advisories — e.g. tyre wear, corrosion, brake issues.
• Patterns of repeat advisories, which may indicate poor maintenance.
• Whether the MOT is currently valid.

For vehicles over 3.5 tonnes, check that a valid plating certificate is available instead of a standard MOT. This HGV test is more stringent and covers braking and weight safety.

If possible, ask the seller if recent advisories have been addressed.

Understand road tax and insurance

While this will be covered in more detail in a separate article, here’s a quick summary:

• 3.5t horseboxes are taxed as light goods vehicles and usually cost around £290/year.
• Over 3.5t horseboxes are taxed as Private HGVs and cost about £165/year — surprisingly cheaper than many vans.
• You won’t be able to drive it away unless it’s taxed or declared SORN and transported.
• Get a quote for insurance in advance so you know what to expect and ensure the vehicle is insurable in your name.

Testing for rust and rot

Inspect the chassis, undercarriage, and any exposed metal for rust, damp patches or signs of rotting. Pay special attention to the horse area floor and ramp - lift any rubber mats on the floor to check the metal or wood underneath. Extensive rust or corrosion (particularly to structural elements) can be very expensive to repair and may compromise safety. Likewise, wooden floors or ramps can rot if they've been exposed to urine or moisture for prolonged periods of time, so prod these areas to ensure they are solid (no soft spots).

Wooden floors are most common in older or budget horseboxes, and are much heavier than aluminium floors. Deciding if you're happy to have a wooden floor is a key consideration when buying a horsebox.

Horse ramp condition

The loading ramp is a crucial part of a horsebox, and must be thoroughly inspected. Check hinges, springs, and latches for soundness and smooth operation. Also ensure that the ramp is rot and corrosion free, and doesn't flex when you bounce on it. The ramp should lift and lower with reasonable ease (ideally one person should be able to lift it back up, alone). In addition, check that the ramp surface has good traction (no worn-out rubber that could cause slipping) and that there are no holes or weak spots. Also, ensure the ramp locks securely in the closed position.

Doors, windows, and partitions

Check that all doors and access panels open, close, and latch properly. This includes ramp catches, the groom's door, tack locker doors, living area doors (if applicable), and emergency exits. Inspect the hinges and frames for rust or damage. There should be a key for each of the locks, which should operate smoothly.

If the horsebox has partitions inside, check that they are sturdy and can be securely fastened. Partitions should swing or slide freely, lock in place without excessive rattling, and have no sharp edges or protrusions that could injure a horse. A solid partition is vital to keep horses separated and balanced during travel.

Bodywork and paint

Walk around the vehicle and look along the body panels for any signs of accident damage or poor repairs. Mismatched paint, bulges, or new patches of underseal might hide welds or corrosion. Some surface rust on an older lorry may be expected, but large rust holes or flaking metal on the body or chassis are red flags. Also check the roof of the horsebox for water leaks - signs of staining or mold on interior walls or ceiling could indicate a leaking roof or windows (dampness can lead to rot in wooden structures). If the model has a tilt cab (driver's cab tilts forward for engine access), ensure the cab locks down securely and check for water ingress around the seal (old tilt-cab lorries can leak at the seal).

Horse Area and Interior Checks

Interior portions of a horse lorry shouldn't be overlooked, as they are key to your horses being comfortable and safe during transportation, and the rider being able to relax whilst away.

Floor and drainage

Revisit the floor from inside, again checking the floor - including underneath rubber mats - for trapped moisture or hidden damage. If the floor's wooden, look for blackened or soft spots, which indicate rot. If metal, look for flaking rust or corrosion. A sound floor is crucial, as there have been countless horror stories of horse's legs falling through rotten floors in transit.

Partitions and breast bars

Check that the partitions are robust and securely mounted. They should latch firmly to the walls or floor, and not wobble excessively when secured. If there are breast or breeching bars, test their fastenings and any quick-release mechanisms (these allow you to free a horse quickly in an emergency). Padding on partitions or bars should be in good condition with no exposed metal. Finally, ensure the partition can be easily moved or removed if needed for larger horses.

Was the lorry designed with a horse in mind?

It's very easy to create a lorry capable of transporting a horse, however, not all are well thought out. The horsebox's design should allow a straightforward and calm exit.

If there are multiple ramps, ensure you assess them all (and how they're intended to be used). If you foresee horses having to back off down the ramp, ensure it's not too steep and is wide enough to reduce the chances of your horse slipping off. For side-loading ramps, make sure there's enough room for a horse to turn and that the ramp isn't at too sharp of an angle to the horsebox. Consider whether a large horse could comfortably step up or down.

Ventilation and light

Inside the horse area, check windows, roof vents, and lighting. Good ventilation is vital to clear exhaust fumes and keep horses cool; windows should open/shut and vents should function as expected. Inspect any fans (noting whether they're DEFRA approved) or vent scoops.

Adequate interior lighting is helpful for loading in the dark and can be invaluable in an emergency. Ensure the interior lights turn on and that the wirings looks safe (no loose, exposed, or damaged cables or fixtures).

General cleanliness and wear

Whilst not a mechanical issue, the state of the horse area can tell you how well the box was cared for. Sniff for damp or the smell of ammonia, which may indicate that the box wasn't cleaned regularly, which can ultimately lead to rot and corrosion. However, it's worth keeping the back of your mind that many horseboxes are built new on used chassis.

You should also pay attention to anything your horse might catch themselves on, such as protruding nails and broken tie rings. If the box has a living area, check for signs of leaks or damp (especially in over-cab beds or wall panels), test that appliances (water pump, lights, fridge, generator, etc.) work if included, and ask if gas systems (e.g. stove or heating) have been safety checked.

Engine, chassis, and mechanical checks

Aside from your horse's safety, the most important aspect of a horsebox is whether it's mechanically reliable. Breakdowns can be both expensive and stressful - only made worse when transporting horses. Thoroughly look over the horsebox's mechanics, and if possible bring a knowledgeable mechanic with you - there's no good substitute!

Engine start and idle

When arranging the viewing, request that the engine is not started prior to your arrival. It's always preferable to inspect a cold engine, as it can reveal if the engine has starting issues. Start the engine and listen to it idle. It should start easily from cold and idle smoothly without stalling or excessive smoke. Watch for warning lights on the dash - the oil pressure light in particular. If the oil light stays on or the engine sounds particularly noisy (knocking or ticking sounds), that could indicate engine wear or low oil pressure.

You should also perform a visual inspection of the engine, looking for oils leaks underneath and around the engine block. Fresh oil drips or puddles are a bad sign. Also look at the exhaust smoke: a brief puff of dark smoke can be normal for diesels, but continuous blue (burning oil) or white smoke (coolant or unburnt fuel) is problematic.

Mileage and engine wear

Although odometer systems have become more secure in recent years (aided by readings being included in MOTs), it's still important to consider whether the reading is appropriate for the vehicle's age.

What is high mileage for a horsebox?

It's common to see horseboxes built on second-hand chassis, meaning that a high mileage isn't unusual. Many horseboxes begin life as delivery trucks, so 100,000+ miles isn't uncommon. As horseboxes rarely cover more than a couple of thousand miles each year, this is unlikely to be a problem. However, it is important that a high-mileage vehicle has been well maintained with a good service history. Diesel engines in vans are built for longevity - there are horseboxes with 150-200k miles still running strong. However, extremely low mileage on an old vehicle can be a red flag too. Focus on service records, evidence of regular oil changes, and any major engine work (like timing belt changes) when determining engine health.

Steering, suspension, and brakes

During a test drive (always do a test drive if it's possible), check that the steering feels tight (no excessive play or wandering on the road). The vehicle should brake in a straight line without pulling to one side. Listen for any clunks or knocks over bumps which could indicate worn suspension bushings or shock absorbers. A spongy brake pedal or excessive pedal travel might mean the brakes need bleeding or new pads. Also test the handbrake, which should be capable of holding the vehicle on a slope. If you're not able to drive it, at least move it forward and back a few meters to feel the clutch biting point (a very high biting point could mean a worn clutch).

Chassis integrity

Inspect the chassis for rust. Whilst surface rust can be expected, deep flaking rust or holes are dangerous. Pay particular attention to where the horsebox body is attached to the chassis. While you likely can't see every attachment point, look for any bolts or brackets securing the box to the frame and check for damage or loose fittings. Any sign of the body separating or not sitting correctly on the chassis is a big red flag. If the lorry has a tilt cab, check the cab's hinge and latch mechanism for solidity, and look for any signs of past weld repairs on the chassis.

Tyres and wheels

Horseboxes often do low annual mileage, so tyres can age out before they wear out. Check all tyres for condition and age - including the spare. The tread depth should be well above the legal minimum (1.6mm in the UK), but equally important are the sidewalls, which should be free of cracks or dry-rot. Old tyres (over ~5-7 years) may harden and crack, even if they have tread. Note that, as of 2020, it's now illegal for tyres older than 10 years to be used on the front axle of a lorry. Look at the tyre DOT date code to see their age. Also ensure that they're the correct rating (load index) for the weight of the vehicle. Whilst inspecting the tyres, also check the wheels for bent rims or missing wheel nuts - if wheel trims are present, remove them to inspect the actual wheel underneath.

Lights and electrics

Do a thorough check of all lights and electrical components. This includes external vehicle lights: headlights (both high and low beam), tail lights, indicators, break lights, reversing lights, fog lights, and side marker lights. Have someone help you verify each light. A blown brake light or indicator is an MOT failure. In the cab test the wipers, horn, and dash gauges. The temperature gauge should rise gradually and stay in the normal range; different behaviour could signal cooling system issues.

Inside the horse area, test any fans or interior lights (as mentioned earlier). Also try any extra features, for example, does the reversing camera (if fitted) work? Are the battery isolator switches functioning (many horseboxes have an isolator to prevent the battery draining - ask the seller how it works)? Living area electrics (lights, water pumps, etc.) should run off a separate battery to the starter motor.

Fuel system and exhaust

Check under the fuel cap for any signs of rust in the tank neck. If the vehicle is diesel (most are), see if the fuel filter has a recent date on it (some owners write the date on the filter when changing it), also check the service history. Look at the exhaust pipe for excessive soot (diesels will be sooty, but big oily deposits might hint at turbo problems).

Noise and vibration

While driving, listen for unusual noises: grinding (could be brake or wheel bearings), whining (maybe a differential or gearbox issues), or banging (exhaust or suspension faults). Vibration at certain speeds might indicate propshaft or wheel balance issues. A healthy horsebox should cruise without drama - any big mechanical "clunks" or shudders need checking.

Professional inspection

If you're not confident, consider investing in a professional pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic or horsebox specialist. They can do a deeper dive into the engine, chassis, and even test the ramp. Professionals might catch dangerous issues that an untrained eye would miss, or recognise the difference between a quirk and a problem. An inspection might cost a few hundred pounds, but it's worth it for an expensive purchase.

Paperwork and legal checks

Alongside performing a physical inspection, always review the horsebox's paperwork, as they can tell you a lot about its history and whether it's legal to use on the road.

V5C log book and identity

Ask to see the V5C registration document (log book) and make sure the vehicle's identification details match up. Check that the registration number, Vehicle Identification Number (VIN/chassis number), make, model, and colour on the log book correspond to the horsebox in front of you. The VIN is usually found on a plate in the cab or etched on the chassis; ensure that number matches the V5C exactly. Any discrepancies could indicate a stolen vehicle or at least a clerical error - both are cause for concern. The log book will alos show the registered keeper. If the seller isn't the person named, ask why (they might be selling on behalf of someone else - in which case, proceed with caution and ensure everything is legitimate).

MOT test status

In the UK, a horsebox (up to 3.5 tonnes) requires an annual MOT, and those over 3.5t require an HGV test (often still colloquially called an MOT or "plating" test). Check the MOT status and history. A valid MOT certificate is essential if the vehicle is to be driven on public roads (unless it's new enough to not yet need one). Look at when the current MOT expires and note any advisory items from the last test. The UK government's MOT history website allows you to input the registration number and see past results and advisories. Pay attention to advisories from previous MOTs; they can highlight emerging issues (e.g. "corrosion starting on chassis" or "tyres close to legal limit"). If you see repeat advisories for the same issue year after year, it might mean it wasn't properly fixed - or fixed at all.

A long MOT with no advisories is a good sign, but if the MOT is nearly due or recently done, consider the possibility that soe problems might have been patched up just to get it through. Don't hesitate to ask the seller about any advisories or failures in the MOT history - a trustworthy seller should be transparent about it.

Service history

A full service history (receipts and stamps in a maintenance book) is extremely valuable, as it proves regular maintenance - oil changes, filter changes, brake servicing, etc. Look for evidence of major service items appropriate to the mileage, for example: many lorry engines have a timing belt or chain service interval. If the horsebox is a conversion, there might be documentation on when it was done and by whom (which coachbuilder). If you're buying a larger horsebox (HGV class), check for plating certificates or inspection reports. A well-documented history means the previous owner cared for the vehicle, which bodes well for future owners - such as yourself.

Chassis number on chassis

As already mentioned, verify the VIN on the log book matches the VIN plate on the vehicle. On many coachbuilt horseboxes, the original VIN plate (from the chassis manufacturer like Iveco, Mercedes, Renault, etc.) will be in the cab door frame or under the bonnet. If you can find the chassis number stamped in the metal of the chassis, even better. If the numbers don’t match, walk away.

Conclusion

In conclusion, take your time and be thorough when buying a horsebox. Inspect the chassis, engine, ramp, floor, electrics, and horse area for any issues. Don’t be afraid to get on your hands and knees with a torch to check underneath for rust, or to insist on a test drive and weight check. Verify all the paperwork - a sound mechanical horsebox is no good if it can’t be legally driven or is overloaded.

If something seems off or too good to be true, walk away or seek expert advice. It’s often said in the horse world: “No foot, no horse.” Similarly, no floor, no horsebox! In other words, the fundamentals (floor, frame, engine) must be solid - cosmetic things can be fixed, but structural safety is paramount. If you’re not mechanically confident, consider bringing a knowledgeable friend or paying a professional inspector to look at the horsebox before you commit​ to buying.